Raspberry Krepysh is a standard variety of domestic selection, a distinctive feature of which is the thickness and strength of the stem, which allows you to grow a crop without tying and supporting.
Raspberry grade "Krepysh"
large, beautiful raspberries "Krepysh" juicy and sweet
the highlight of the Krepysh variety is that its bushes do not need a garter and there are absolutely no thorns on them
Origin of the variety
The variety was bred as a result of work with large-fruited Scottish hybrids in 2000 by breeders of the Institute of Horticulture and Nursery (VSTISP) under the guidance of Professor V.V. Kichina.
Description of Stout
The common raspberry is called the raspberry tree by the common people. Indeed, a developed adult plant vaguely resembles a small tree, but this is the same bush as all other types of raspberries.
Bushes
The variety lives up to its name - the plant is strong and stocky. Not only the main trunk, but also the rest of the shoots are thick and hard. The shrub of the standard type, 1.8 m high, can reach 2 m. Powerful thornless shoots (up to 2 cm thick) have short internodes and multiple lateral branches.
In the first year after planting, the color of the stems is green, in the second year, their color becomes yellow-brown. The leaves are strongly corrugated, dark green. Fruit branches are formed only in the upper part of the plant. There are a lot of them, they are short, compact.
Berries
Fruits of a rich red-raspberry color, without shine, beautiful blunt-conical shape, large, weighing up to 10 g. A big plus is the dense pulp of the berries, thanks to which they have a dry surface, remaining juicy inside.
Raspberry fruits Krepysh are endowed with an interesting feature: just before ripening, literally in 1-2 days, there is a rapid increase in the size and weight of berries.
Ripe berries are easily separated from the stalks, do not deform during collection and transportation. Overripe fruits do not crumble, but gradually dry up, remaining on the branches.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
The advantages of the Krepysh variety include:
- stable generous yields with competent agricultural technology;
- large beautiful berries;
- lack of thorns on the stems, which makes picking berries more convenient;
- high frost resistance;
- the strength of the stems;
- increased resistance to diseases and pests;
- there is no need for supports;
- prolonged fruiting;
- the bush has a weak thickening of shoots, does not grow;
- the dense structure of the fruit allows maintaining high commercial qualities during transportation and storage.
Weaknesses of the variety:
- long wait for the first berries and full fruiting;
- uneven maturation (for commercial cultivation);
- the bush does not tolerate mechanical damage;
- sensitive to transplantation, long survival period in a new place.
Ripening time and yield
Raspberry Krepysh is cultivated in the Central and Central Black Earth regions, in the Kuban and in central Russia.
This is a mid-early variety. The ripening time of Krepysh is June-August. Ripening dates may slightly shift in one direction or another, depending on weather conditions. The berries ripen more actively in the sun than during prolonged rains.
The harvest ripens on last year's shoots, and unevenly. This has its pros and cons. The plus is that you can feast on fresh berries for a long time, and the minus, rather, concerns commercial gardening. This uneven ripening is a serious obstacle to harvesting and marketing.
In one cluster of 6-9 berries, only one can be ripe, the rest will take 1-2 weeks to ripen.
The yield of Krepysh raspberries is high. With proper agricultural technology, up to 4 kg of berries can be removed from the bush.
Sustainability
It tolerates low temperatures well, the frost resistance of the variety is up to -30 ° C. It can be grown in almost any region.
A significant advantage of Krepysh is good resistance to pests and most viral and fungal diseases.
Sapling selection
The purchase of a seedling must be approached responsibly, good yields can only be expected from high-quality planting material:
- a branched root system with an abundance of small roots is important for a seedling;
- the diameter of the stem of a young standard seedling is at least 1 cm;
- the stem is woody, strong;
- no swelling on the stem.
The presence of a woody stem and a developed root system will make it easier for the plant to adapt to a new place. The length of the stem does not matter, anyway, when planting it is shortened, its diameter is important. Saplings with a thin stem have poor survival rate.
The stem of a plant acquired in the nursery usually has already removed the buds from the roots to a certain height. This will be the raspberry stem. The seedling is already initially prepared for correct development and formation. Above the stem, buds should be located, from which fruiting shoots will grow later.
In the air, especially in the sun, raspberry roots dry out quickly, so the root system of the acquired seedling is wrapped in a wet cloth and placed in a plastic bag.
Features of fruiting and taste
Don't expect quick results after planting. Krepysh begins to bear fruit in 2-3 years, a full-fledged crop can be removed only in the 4-5th year. But the long wait is offset by abundant harvests and the duration of fruit ripening.
Ripe fruits have a pleasant aroma, the taste is juicy, sweet with sourness. Berries are consumed fresh, frozen and dried, rubbed with sugar, juices, sweet homemade liqueurs and wines, jams, compotes and preserves are made.
Choosing a seat for landing
For planting standard raspberries, they choose a sunny, flat surface, and a site protected from northern winds. The place under the raspberry tree should not be flooded by rain and melt water. The plant does not tolerate excess moisture.
For good fruiting, a strong man needs a soil of slightly acidic or neutral acidity, fertile and breathable. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5-2 m from the ground surface.
When planting raspberries along the borders of the site, you need to retreat from the fence by about a meter. But the best option would be a compact planting in rows, in a square.
Good precursors for raspberries: cucumbers, courgettes, onions, garlic, and parsley. You shouldn't plant raspberries where tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, strawberries, eggplants grew.
Preparatory work
Raspberries prefer light, well-drained soils rich in organic matter and mineral nutrients.
If the soil in the area selected for planting is not fertile enough, it can be domesticated. For 1 sq. m, 10-12 kg of organic fertilizers, 50 g of potassium sulfate, 100 g of superphosphate are applied for digging.
When the site is being prepared for autumn planting, it is advisable to sow it in early spring with legumes (beans, alfalfa, peas) or mustard, rapeseed.
Before flowering, the green fertilizer is mowed and embedded in the soil. By autumn, the siderates will well enrich the land under the raspberry tree with the necessary nutrients and improve its structure. But this does not negate the introduction of organic matter and mineral fertilizers into pits or furrows during planting.
If the acidity of the soil is high, in the fall it is deoxidized by adding chalk, dolomite flour or lime.
Planting raspberries Krepysh
You can get really generous harvests when the plant is planted on time and correctly, and the nutrients it needs are introduced for better rooting and development.
Timing
The most suitable time for planting Krepysh raspberries is March-April or the end of September-October.
Landing patterns
For spring planting, pits or trenches are prepared in the fall, and for autumn planting - at least 3 weeks in advance. You can plant Krepysh stock raspberries using a bush or trench method.
Bush planting
Consists of the following steps:
- Dig holes for each plant - 50x50 cm, the depth depends on the size of the root system of the seedling, usually 40-50 cm is enough.The distance between the seedlings is at least 0.5 m.
- Fill each pit with 1 bucket of compost, or put rotted manure on the bottom (peat with manure is possible). Be sure to add phosphate fertilizers - 1 / 3-1 / 2 matchbox. If there is no manure, you can add mineral nitrogen fertilizers, for example, ammonium nitrate - 1 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water.
- Mix the fertilizers in the planting holes well with the soil.
- A couple of hours before planting, dip the roots of the plants in water with the addition of the stimulant Kornevin or Heteroauxin.
- Place the seedling in the planting hole, straighten the roots, sprinkle with fertile soil, compact and water well (5-6 liters of water under the bush).
- After watering, when the ground has slightly subsided, the seedling should be buried 1.5-3 cm below the level at which it grew in the nursery.
- Prune the plant at a height of 30 cm.
- Form a hole around the seedling, and mulch the surface with rotted sawdust, straw, compost, peat or other organic matter. The thickness of the mulch layer is 8-10 cm.
Trench method
The trench method practically does not differ from the bush planting. The only difference is that instead of separate holes, one long furrow is dug and filled with fertilizers.
For 1 running meter of the trench, 5-6 kg of humus, 30-40 g of potassium sulfate or other potash fertilizers that do not contain chlorine, and 60 g of superphosphate are applied. Potash fertilizers can be replaced with wood ash - 200-300 g.
When planting with a trench, the distance between plants is 0.6-1 m.If there are several rows, the distance between them is at least 2 m.
In autumn planting, the lower buds of the plant are hilled.
Raspberry care
Caring for the standard raspberry Krepysh is exactly the same as for any other type of this plant, and consists in loosening, weeding, watering and feeding:
- Watering. The variety gives an increased yield, therefore, raspberries require more moisture. Watered at least 1 time a week. Standard raspberry is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate stagnant water. In rainy and cloudy weather, it is not watered, so as not to cause rotting of the roots.
- Top dressing. During the season, at least 3 dressings are carried out, it is better to combine them with watering:
- The first - in the spring they are fed with nitrogen fertilizers during the blooming of leaf buds. An infusion of mullein is used, which must necessarily ferment, or mineral nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea (50 g per 10 l of water). This amount is enough for 3 raspberry bushes. You can use ammonium nitrate.
Practicing nitrogen fertilization in the snow. For each square. m of raspberry are scattered with a mixture of ammonium nitrate (10 g) and urea (8 g). When the snow melts, fertilizers fall along with the melted water to the root system of the plants. - The second – in the budding phase, they give a complete complex fertilizer containing potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen. Suitable nitroammofosk, 10 g of which is diluted in 10 liters of water.
- Third - carried out in the fall, at the end of the growing season, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied.
- The first - in the spring they are fed with nitrogen fertilizers during the blooming of leaf buds. An infusion of mullein is used, which must necessarily ferment, or mineral nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea (50 g per 10 l of water). This amount is enough for 3 raspberry bushes. You can use ammonium nitrate.
- Weeding. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to remove weeds and young root shoots. You can leave one or two of the strongest offspring from the bush for reproduction, cut the rest.
- Loosening. Periodically, after watering, surface loosening is carried out, trying not to damage the roots. This exercise helps control weeds, gets rid of insect larvae, and oxygenates the roots. After loosening, a layer of mulch is placed under the bush.
Preparation for wintering
The high frost resistance of Krepysh raspberries allows you to do without shelter for the winter in regions where there are no prolonged severe frosts. A temperature of -20 ° C is not dangerous for the plant. But with strong winter winds, the Fortress needs to bend to the ground.
The winter hardiness of the crop increases if in the fall, at the end of October - beginning of November, water-charging irrigation is carried out - 50 liters of water per square meter. m raspberry.
In regions with a harsh climate, in preparation for wintering, raspberries are bent to the ground and covered with agrofibre. It is good if the bushes are under heavy snow cover.
Support
Raspberry Krepysh practically does not need support, the dense and strong wood of the shoots should not allow them to bend from strong winds or under the weight of the crop. But, judging by the reviews of people who grow such raspberries, bushes without a garter can even break in strong winds when the site is not protected from it.
Although this variety does not need a garter, hammered stakes with a wire between them can be used to support the stems.
Pruning and shaping the crown
It is usually recommended to pinch the top of annual shoots when they reach a height of 1.5 m. But the stems grow to this size by the end of summer. As a result, few lateral shoots are formed, and they do not have time to ripen by winter.
There is a smarter approach to the formation of standard raspberries, tested by gardeners in practice. The double cropping method is used. In late May and early June, pinch the top at a height of 50 cm.
Pinching stimulates active germination of lateral shoots. The bush during this period has a lot of strength and enough time for their formation and growth. When the length of the lateral shoots growing on the main stem reaches 50 cm, they are also pinched.
With this variant of plant formation, the shoots have time to get stronger before winter. The next year, many fruitful twigs will form on them.
After completing the harvest, the fruit bearing shoots are cut off. Better not to tighten until spring, and cut them out in August. In this case, the replacement shoots will have time to mature well.
Formation in subsequent years consists in the removal of dry branches in the spring. In summer (in June), pinch the top, in July, shorten the lateral shoots.
Read articles on how to properly prune raspberries in the fall and spring.
How to propagate a variety?
Raspberry Krepysh can be propagated by shoots, green, and root cuttings.
Undergrowth
The easiest way is propagation by root shoots-offshoots, which appear in the spring near raspberry bushes.
They choose the strongest and strongest ones, leave them for the summer, and by autumn, when they develop normally, they are dug up and transplanted with a clod of earth to a prepared place.
Green cuttings
This is the second most popular method used both in spring and autumn. The main thing is that at least a month remains from planting rooted cuttings before the onset of cold weather.
The optimal time for harvesting cuttings is late May-early June. Young shoots are the source of cuttings in spring, and healthy annual shoots in autumn.
Breeding raspberries with green cuttings:
- Cut the young shoot into 8-15 cm segments (each has at least 2-3 buds). To stimulate root formation, make several longitudinal shallow cuts, 2-3 cm long, in the lower part of the cutting with a sharp knife.
- Cut off the top and leave 1-2 leaves on each cutting.
- Then the cuttings, tied in bunches, are placed in a rooting stimulator (Heteroauxin, Kornevin) for about a day. Only the tips (slices) of the cuttings should be in the solution.
- Plant the cuttings into the soil, deepening 1/3 of the length, at an angle of 45 degrees, between plants - 5-7 cm, between rows - 7-10 cm. A greenhouse or a small film shelter is suitable for this purpose.
- Water. In the future, make sure that the soil is constantly moist.
- After 4-5 weeks, transfer the rooted cuttings to a permanent location.
Root cuttings
The method is optimal for multiplying raspberry varieties that form little overgrowth. These include Krepysh. This breeding option is suitable for plants in which the aerial part is affected by the disease.
This is done in autumn or early spring, until the roots have released green shoots:
- Dig up the bush and shake the soil off the rhizome. You can take cuttings from both annuals and perennials.
- Choose roots with a diameter of 2-3 mm that have renewal buds. The length of the cut root cuttings is 10-15 cm. Do not take the upper lobe roots; replacement buds are not laid on them.
- If cutting is carried out in the fall, and there is a fear that the cuttings planted in the ground will freeze in winter, store them in the basement in damp sand or peat until spring.
- Plant in grooves to a depth of no more than 5 cm. When planting in autumn for the winter, be sure to mulch the soil well with peat, rotted manure or other breathable material.
- Transplant to a permanent location in warm weather (April-May).
Diseases, pests and control of them
Under unfavorable conditions, insufficient lighting and dense plantings, pathogens and pests accumulate on the plants. But even with proper care with all agrotechnical measures, the raspberry plant is not immune from diseases, many of which are carried by insect pests.
Tables 1 and 2 - pests and diseases that pose a threat to Krepysh raspberries, as well as control and prevention measures.
Table 1
Pests | Harm done | Control measures |
Raspberry-strawberry weevil (flower beetle) | It bites the pedicels, the buds fall off or break off and wither. | Treatment before and after flowering with Fufanon, Kemifos or Alatar preparations (according to the instructions). |
Raspberry beetle | Beetle larvae damage fruits (wormy berries). | 1. Loosening the soil in early spring and during the growing season, weeding. 2. Spraying at the beginning of June with 1% karbofos during the blooming period of the first flowers. |
Stem raspberry gall midge | Galls are formed on the stems, inside of which are orange larvae. Shoots crack, weaken. Above the swelling, the stem dries up and breaks off. | The affected shoots are cut 3-4 cm below the bulge and burned. Spraying before flowering with insecticides: BI-58, Aktellik, Alatar, Inta-Vir, etc. |
table 2
Disease | Symptoms | Treatment |
Anthracnose | Greyish-white spots with a purple border. The entire above-ground part of the bush is affected. The bark flakes off, the leaves dry out. | Infected bushes are removed, the raspberry is treated three times a season with copper-containing preparations: Oxyhom, HOM, a solution of copper sulfate. |
Gray rot | It affects leaves, shoots and fruits. The berries are covered with a fluffy coating and rot. | Diseased plants are immediately disposed of, healthy plants are treated with fungicides. |
A proven way to protect bushes from fungal diseases is by spraying with Bordeaux liquid. In early spring, before the leaves bloom, a 3% solution is used, and in the budding phase, a 1% solution. Treatments are also aimed at preventing bacterial diseases.
Reviews from gardeners about Krepysh raspberries
Elena, 39 years old, summer resident, Volgograd region.Our Krepysh has new shoots every spring, but the raspberry is not overgrown. I cut the bushes only when necessary, once every 2-3 years. The berries ripen quickly, picked them in the evening, and by the next evening there are many red ones again. I'm happy with the variety.
Olga Nikolaevna, 50 years old, gardener, Rostov.I liked the Krepysh variety because there is no need to tie the raspberries to the trellis. Gardeners are aware of how much labor and time it takes to tie plants to supports. There is no such hassle with this variety. The harvest is generous, the berries are dense, do not fall apart.
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The standard raspberry variety Krepysh is endowed with large berries, resistance to diseases and frosty winters, and is capable of producing a rich harvest with easy care. Such advantages make it stand out from other varieties. This is worth using when growing raspberries on your site.