To understand how to grow a melon in a greenhouse, and whether it is worth spending time and money on it, you need to study many points. To get a delicious generous harvest, it is worthwhile to take a responsible approach to each point of the process. Is it worth it to try, let's figure it out together.
Advantages and disadvantages of growing melons in a greenhouse
Melon is a heat-loving crop, so it grows better in a greenhouse than in open ground. The benefits of growing it under cover include:
- The favorable microclimate of the greenhouse gives a high chance of ripening melon.
- Care of the crop is facilitated by the well-thought out organization of the greenhouse.
- The climate and weather conditions have practically no effect on the melon and do not create problems for the gardener. For example, outdoors, the wind can flip and twist the plant's lashes.
- The culture is less susceptible to diseases and pest attacks.
- The ability to grow melons in almost any region, regardless of natural conditions and climate.
- Fruits grown under cover are sweeter and juicier.
Despite the advantages, this method has its drawbacks:
- The high cost of the greenhouse and its installation.
- Additional measures such as lighting and temperature control are expensive.
- The process of pollination, due to the absence of pollinating insects, passes under the responsibility of the gardener.
Greenhouse preparation for sowing seeds
Melon grows well in bulk greenhouses made of film or polycarbonate. Before engaging in soil preparation work, you should check the condition of the shelter itself:
- Eliminate all available slots. This is especially important, because the seedlings of a heat-loving culture do not tolerate drafts.
- Prepare trellises - at least 2 for each square. m of area, mesh and fastening of the garter material.
- Equip your greenhouse with additional heat and light sources.
- If necessary, treat the shelter with a fungicide compound.
Preparing the greenhouse is the first step towards a rich harvest. Without such work, the rest may be useless.
How to grow seedlings from melon seeds?
Seedlings of culture can be purchased ready-made. But, in order not to doubt the varieties and the observance of certain conditions for its cultivation, it is advisable to carry out the entire process from the selection of seeds to obtaining fruits from them yourself.
Suitable varieties for greenhouse cultivation
The results of melon cultivation activities largely depend on the correct choice of the variety. Therefore, pay special attention to studying the varietal diversity of this crop and determining priorities for cultivation.
It is recommended to grow the following melon varieties in a greenhouse or greenhouse:
- Lada... Mid-season variety. Fruit ripening occurs 80-85 days after the emergence of resistant shoots. The fruit is oval, yellow-orange in color, with a mesh pattern over the entire surface. The weight of very sweet melons ranges from 1.1 kg to 1.5 kg. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases.
- Mallet. The growing season is 60-65 days from mass shoots. The fruit is oval, bright yellow, can weigh up to 3 kg. The pulp is juicy and sweet, the melon rind is thin. The variety is fruitful, resistant to fungal infections.
- Woller.Early ripe yellow-brown fruits have a delicate sweet pulp, thin peel and a small seed chamber. Melons weigh up to 3 kg. Ripen on 62-65 days after germination. The fruits tolerate transportation well and are well stored. The variety has resistance to powdery mildew, anthracnose and fusarium.
melon grade "Lada"
melon variety "Kiyanka"
melon variety "Voller"
For the northern regions, seeds of Barnaulka, Amber, Altai, etc. are suitable.
Selection of quality seeds
To choose high quality seeds, pay attention to the following nuances:
- Pick up seeds of varieties and hybrids that yield crops in your climate zone.
- Pay attention to the growing season of melon. Early and mid-season varieties are preferable for growing in a greenhouse.
- The culture prefers to actively grow and bear fruit on black soil. If the type of soil on your site is different, then choose the seeds for it.
- When planning to engage in gourds for more than one year, carefully choose varieties. Melons can be used to harvest seeds. Hybrids do not have this opportunity.
- Examine the packaging. It always indicates the timing of sowing seeds and their planting in the ground. The shelf life of the planting material is also important, if it comes to an end, refuse to buy.
- Certified seeds are bought in specialized stores, and not ordered on the Internet or in any other dubious place.
Most often, neighbors and friends give seeds for planting. Over time, the melons from them become more frail and degenerate. There is only one way out of this situation, you need to change the seeds every 3-4 years, or cross different varieties, getting hybrids.
Sowing seeds
Melon seeds 3-4 years ago are suitable for planting. Last year's seeds, with a good growth of greens, productivity will not please. Planting material must be hardened and processed before sowing. To do this, carry out the following procedures:
- Sort out the seeds, leaving only healthy ones with a dense large body.
- Soak the seeds in a light pink solution of manganese for half an hour.
- Remove floating seeds, they are not suitable for planting.
- After soaking, rinse with clean water.
- Hardening. To do this, place it in water with a temperature of 55 to 65 ºС for a couple of hours, and then dry at room temperature for a day. After that, send the seeds to the refrigerator for 15-17 hours, and after taking them out, leave them in the room to warm up to the usual temperature.
After completing all the preparatory measures, it is recommended to sow the melon immediately to a permanent place. But, if the greenhouse is not yet ready, plant the seeds in peat pots with a diameter of 10 cm and place them on the windowsill. Instead of peat containers, you can purchase any others or use empty plastic cups available in everyday life by making several holes in the bottom.
Prepare soil for planting from 90% peat and 10% sand. For every 10 liters of planting mixture, pour 1 tbsp. wood ash.
The second method of preparing planting soil involves mixing 2/3 of the soil with 1/3 of the humus. Fill the cups with the mixture, and plant 2-3 seeds in each to a depth of about 2 cm.
It is necessary to cover the crops with foil. Daytime temperature for emergence of seedlings should fluctuate within 23-26 ºС, and night temperature - 17-19 ºС. After the sprouts appear, select the main one - the strongest and healthiest. Cut off the rest at the base.
Do not pull weak shoots from the ground. This damages the still weak root system of the main sprout.
Seedling Care
Caring for young greenery involves the following work:
- Regular moistening of the soil. Water the seedlings carefully so that water does not spill onto the green parts of the plant.
- Sprinkle sand on top of the ground so that the development of the black leg does not begin.
- When 2 leaves appear, apply a complex of fertilizers. Repeat the procedure again after 10-14 days.
- Temper seedlings before planting in the greenhouse. Lower the air temperature during the day to 17 ºС, at night - to 12 ºС.
- As the greenery grows, move the containers with them away from each other so that the leaves do not touch the plants.
Seedlings are planted under a shelter when they get stronger and 5-6 leaves are formed on the stem.
Landing features
When transferring seedlings to the greenhouse soil, it is important to properly prepare the soil and adhere to the timing of agrotechnical measures. One plant in a greenhouse covers an area of approximately 40 sq. cm, thus on each square. m greenhouses can accommodate no more than 2 roots of seedlings. If the size of the greenhouse allows, arrange the plants in a checkerboard pattern.
Watch a video below on how to grow a melon in a greenhouse - from planting seedlings to harvesting:
Soil preparation and disinfection
Melons grow well on loose, sandy soils and chernozems. It is important to exclude soil salinity and acidification. For this, ash, chalk, limestone are introduced when digging up the areas of the greenhouse. In addition, ash increases the amount of sugar in the fruit.
At the beginning of the second spring decade, the land for planting melons is fertilized. Preference is given to organic matter: humus, poultry droppings, rotted manure, peat and the contents of compost pits. This is due to the fact that organics are split for some time, which means that the culture will receive nutrition not at the same time, but in a dosed and continuous manner.
In addition, the decomposition of organics produces heat, which is necessary for fragile young plants. The bacteria involved in the degradation process have a beneficial effect on the soil, increasing the penetration of air to the roots.
Organics are distributed at a depth of about 30 cm, at the rate of 2 kg per sq. m greenhouses. After laying, the organics are watered with hot water and sprinkled with soil.
If necessary, disinfect the greenhouse and soil in one of the following ways:
- Agrotechnical... With this method, emphasis is placed on crop rotation. Once every 1-2 years, crops grown in the greenhouse change. Therefore, if possible, build not one large greenhouse, but several small ones.
- Biological... It is based on the introduction of special solutions into the soil that increase the growth of beneficial bacteria in order to suppress unfavorable microflora. Such drugs include "Baikal", "Baktofit", etc. Other biological methods include steaming and freezing the soil. These are more time consuming processes than the use of biological products. An effective way to completely change the soil layer in the greenhouse.
- Chemical. This is an extreme measure in soil preparation, since the effect of chemicals is not selective - along with pathogenic microflora and pests, useful ones are destroyed. You can restore them after chemical treatment using organics. Such drugs include: manganese, formalin, TMTD fungicide, sulfur-based drugs, etc.
When working with chemistry, use personal protective equipment (clothing, a respirator, gloves, glasses).
Preparation of planting material
If the seedlings are already grown and hardened, you can start planting it in the greenhouse as soon as preparatory work on the soil and shelter is carried out.
If it is planned to grow melons initially in a greenhouse, then the following measures are necessary:
- Warming up seeds near heating devices. You can hang cloth bags with seeds near a heat source, or put them on a battery, provided it is heated no higher than 50 degrees.
- Disinfection of seeds, by treatment with special preparations, or soaking in a manganese solution for 15 minutes.
- Sprout seeds using any of the methods: on peat tablets, in a roll made of toilet paper or on moistened gauze.
Landing dates
Melon planting dates depend on the climate of the region and the equipment of the greenhouse. Most often, this period occurs at the end of April-beginning of May. It is necessary that the soil warms up to 15 ºС. Daytime temperature did not fall below 20 ºС, and night temperature - not lower than 15 ºС. If the temperature drops to 10 ºС, young plants are more likely to die.
If the greenhouse is equipped with a lighting system, heating and has high beds, then it does not depend on external weather conditions, which means that the planting time can be varied.
Planting seedlings in a greenhouse: step by step instructions
Planting seedlings in a greenhouse is a responsible event, carried out according to the instructions:
- Prepare planting holes at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other. If the area allows, then leave a distance of 70 to 100 cm between the aisles.
- Water the seedlings in containers with plenty of water.
- Carefully remove the young plant from the container so as not to damage the root system.
- Place the seedling in the hole so that the root collar is slightly above the ground. This prevents the plant from rotting.
- Fill the root with soil, making a small hill and tamping it a little.
- Sprinkle the soil near the root system with a layer of river sand.
- Cover the seedlings with damp paper for survival and adaptation in a new place.
Green melon care
Careful care of the melon in the greenhouse requires attention and takes a lot of energy. But without this, the harvest may not ripen.
Correct temperature regime
After transplanting young seedlings, the temperature in the greenhouse is maintained at 25-30 ºС. If weather permits, ventilate the room daily. When the plant takes root, lower the temperature by 5 degrees. The night temperature in the greenhouse should not be lower than 15 ºС.
Humidity and watering
Watering the melon must be carried out by drip, or with a watering can, so as not to wet the green aboveground part. The water should be warm. In extreme cases, the plant can tolerate drought, but does not tolerate waterlogged soil. Air humidity - no more than 60%.
Lighting
Melon needs sunlight up to 14 hours a day. With insufficient lighting, the plant withers, lags in growth. Therefore, be prepared to apply lighting fixtures. There are special phytolamps on sale that emit ultraviolet light, which is necessary for a culture for biological processes. You can use LED and fluorescent lamps instead.
Top dressing
Lack or excess of minerals in the soil is very dangerous for the melon - the fruits quickly rot. Complex fertilizers (nitroammofosk, ammofosk, etc.) are applied every 10-14 days under the root until flowering at the rate of 10 g per 10 l of water. Consumption - 5-7 liters at the root.
During flowering and ovary formation, melons are fed with superphosphate. You need to dilute 40 g of groundbait in 10 liters of water. The consumption rate of 2.5 g of superphosphate per square. m.
When the fruits ripen, apply top dressing with ash. It is scattered on the surface, or an ash infusion is prepared.
Greenhouse pollination
When the greenhouse is opened for full daylight hours, bees will pollinate. Otherwise, the gardener will have to carry out this procedure. When the flowers are fully open, pick the male flower (it is larger, with a swelling at the base) and slide it over the female flower bowls so that the pollen wakes up on them.
For 1 male flower there are 4 female ones. Repeat the procedure as necessary. In order not to pluck the male flower, you can use a cotton swab.
Thinning
When the melon grows to the size of a chicken egg, thin out. To do this, leave 5-7 fruits on the whip, cut off the rest, otherwise there will not be enough food for everyone and the crop will not be ripe. After thinning, water the garden bed abundantly and apply complex fertilizers.
Formation of bushes: pruning, pinching, pinching
Melon forms fruits not on the main stem, but on the lateral ones. Therefore, the first pinching must be carried out even at the seedling stage - pinch the sprout over 3 leaves. From the bud above it, the main stem will grow, and from the lower ones - side lashes. The second procedure is carried out when the lashes have grown to a length of at least 2 m. Here you need to pinch both the side stems and the main one.
If some of the melons have not formed fruit, they are completely cut off. Place the cut sprinkled with chopped charcoal.
The number of ovaries on the lash also needs to be regulated. When growing in a greenhouse vertically, leave 3-4 ovaries closest to the base on the stem. In the future, follow the formation of the bush, simply removing the extra stepsons.
Harvesting and storage
The collection begins after making sure that the fruit is fully ripe: the mesh on its surface is pronounced, the color is uniform and the melon itself easily breaks off the whip.
Usually early maturing varieties are stored for up to 8 weeks, late ones - up to 6 months.Pick fruits with a stalk about 3 cm in the morning or evening. Leave the melons on the plot for four days, but turn them over every 6 hours.
After the time has passed, remove the fruits to a cool, dark place that has been disinfected and whitewashed with lime. Place the crop on shelves sprinkled with sawdust or hanging. The storage temperature should be 3-4 ºС, and the air humidity should be 80%. Periodically review the fruits, if they begin to deteriorate, eat them.
Diseases and pests of melons in the greenhouse, the fight against them
Most melon diseases in greenhouse conditions are of fungal origin. The source of the fungus is seeds, weeds, soil and pests.
The most common diseases are:
- Powdery mildew. It is determined by a whitish coating on the surface of the leaves. Over time, it covers the entire sheet plate, it dries and falls.
- Peronosporiosis. Shows signs of powdery mildew, but the disease covers the leaf blade from below.
- FusariumIt is characterized by whitening of melon leaves and vines. With extensive infection, the plant completely disappears in 2 weeks.
- Anthracnose. Determined by the appearance of brown spots on melon leaves. Putrid stains, similar to rust, form on the fruit.
- Root rot.The root becomes thinner, it collapses, ceases to perform its functions and the plant dies.
Disease control involves the removal of affected areas, treatment with fungicidal solutions.
Disease prevention includes moderate watering, loosening the soil, getting rid of weeds, and dressing the soil and seeds before planting.
Pests include:
- Melon aphid.Small white-yellow insects feed on plant sap, accumulating under the leaves. Melon withers from lack of nutrients. Spraying with a solution of laundry soap (100 g per 10 l of water) or Actellik, Karbofos will help.
- Wireworm.Dangerous insect larvae that feed on the juice and pulp of plants and fruits. They are orange-brown worm-like insects in a shell. When planting melons, add crushed eggshells to each hole, observe crop rotation, remove weeds.
- Spider mite. Dark small insects accumulate under the leaf plate. They feed on plant sap. Their presence is confirmed by the cobweb.
To control pests, chemicals based on acaricides are used.
Growing melons in a greenhouse involves a whole range of activities. This is a complex and responsible process. But it has an undeniable advantage - the fruits of the melon grow as sweet, juicy and large as possible. And there is no doubt about the safety of their composition.