Plum is a compact and unpretentious fruit tree that never skimp on crops. The heat-loving culture, thanks to selection, has become available to regions with a harsh climate. We will find out what a gardener should do to keep plum trees healthy and productive for a long time.
Fruit Tree Description
Plum is one of the five most popular fruit trees. It belongs to the genus treelike, the Pink family. It is believed that plum is a hybrid obtained in vivo by crossing the turn and cherry plum.
General description and characteristics of the plum:
- Wood. Height varies widely and depends on the variety. There are plums with a height of only 1 m, there are varieties that reach a height of 15 m. Gardeners are more attracted by low trees - it is easier to pick fruits from them that stick around the branches.
- The roots The plum has a root type root system. Most of it is located at a depth of 30-40 cm.
- Leaves. They are obovate or elliptical. The edges are serrate or gusseted. The reverse side of the leaf is pubescent. Petioles are short. Length - 4-10 cm, width - 2-5 cm.
- Flowers. Large white. Flower bud gives 1-3 flowers. Diameter - 1.5-2 cm.
- Fruit. Juicy drupes. Each fruit has one bone. The color of the fruit may have shades of blue, violet, burgundy, yellow, light green, red, black. The skin is covered with a bluish bloom. The shape of the fruit is round or oblong.
- Longevity. Plum trees are not long-lived. They live for about a quarter of a century, while their productive age is only 10-15 years.
- Early maturity. Depends on the variety and the particular seedling. Early-growing varieties begin to bear fruit 2-3 years after planting, there are also varieties that have to wait 6-7 years for a harvest.
The best varieties
The most popular types of plums:
- Home plum. Trees up to 15 m in height. Varieties with fruits of yellow, blue, green and other colors. They have subspecies:
- Hungarian. The fruits are elongated, the pulp is dense, of which they make prunes.
- Greengage. They have spherical fruits that are more tender than the Hungarian pulp.
- Mirabel... Small round fruits, yellow or golden in color. Plums are sweet, with a dense pulp, good for processing.
- Plum prickly (turn). These are shrubs up to 4.5 m high. They have small fruits with a tart taste.
- Chinese plum. The height of the trees is up to 12 m. Oval or pear-shaped fruits, large, of different colors. Subspecies - Ussuriyskaya, Manchurian, Apricot.
Read our additional article on the listed and other most successful plum varieties.
There are about 30 types of plums in total, but it is the "plum" that is usually called home plum.
Today, there are about three hundred popular, cultivated by gardeners, plum varieties. Presented varieties differ:
- Ripening dates. There are early ripe, mid-ripe and late ripe.
- Frost resistance. Depending on the temperatures that the tree is able to withstand, the growing area is determined.
- Productivity. From some varieties you can collect 6-8 kg, and from others up to 30-50 kg and even more;
- Fruit characteristics. The fruits of different varieties differ in color, weight, shape, taste, aroma, transportability. There are large-fruited varieties, medium and small fruited. The varieties are also divided into yellow, blue, red.
- The height of the tree. There are undersized, medium and tall varieties.
- Pollination features. There are varieties of self-fertile, partly self-fertile and self-fertile.
- Drought resistance. There are varieties with high, medium and low drought resistance.
- The type of plant. There are tree and bush plums.
Plum Planting Basics
The main thing in the process of planting a plum is the choice of a suitable variety. So that the tree does not freeze and gives good harvests, it must be designed for the local climate. Having decided on the variety, they choose a site and the optimal planting time - if you make a mistake, the tree will be weakened, infertile, or even completely die due to inappropriate conditions. We learn how to plant a plum, and what are the options for planting.
Terrain, climate and area
Plum is a heat-loving plant, it is widespread in Europe and in most countries of the world with a temperate climate. She feels great in all southern regions of Russia - in the North Caucasus, in the Krasnodar Territory.
The north of the Moscow Region is considered to be the border of the plum range - almost no plum is grown beyond this border. But, thanks to selection, today frost-resistant varieties have been bred that grow and bear fruit in regions with a harsh climate - in the Urals, in Siberia, in the Far East.
When planting a plum, it is important to compare the local climatic conditions with the frost resistance of a particular variety. The critical temperature for this culture is minus 30 degrees. But if such frosts drag on, the tree may not stand it.
Where is it better to plant a plum:
- In regions with mild to moderate winters.
- On moist loamy soils with good drainage. Plum does not grow well on acidic and alkaline waterlogged soils. Also, saline and heavy loamy soils and dry sandstones are not suitable for the culture.
- In areas where the groundwater level is at least 1.5-2 m from the surface.
- In sunny, well-lit areas. Without drafts and gusts of wind.
Sapling selection
Saplings sold by nurseries are usually obtained by grafting a varietal plant onto rootstocks grown from seed. You can also buy root seedlings - they are grown from cuttings or root shoots.
Options for choosing a good seedling:
Parameter | Value |
Age | 1-2 years |
Height | 110-140 cm |
Branch length | 15-20 cm in one-year-olds and 30 cm in two-year-olds |
Barrel diameter | 1.1-1.3 cm |
Barrel diameter at a distance of 10 cm from the graft | 1.3-1.7 cm |
Roots | 4-5 roots from 25 cm long |
Autumn planting
Autumn planting is carried out in such a time so that about a month remains before the frost. The order of planting plum seedling:
- Dig the soil to the depth of the bayonet. Improve, if necessary, the structure and composition of the soil. For example, if the soil is acidic, deoxidants are added for digging - dolomite flour or ash (600-700 g per 1 sq. M) is suitable.
- A pit is prepared 2-3 weeks before the upcoming planting. The minimum depth of the hole is 60 cm, the diameter is about 70 cm. When digging a hole, the upper fertile layer is laid separately - it is necessary to prepare a soil mixture from it.
- If there are several seedlings, holes are dug at a distance of 3 m from each other. The pits are prepared in advance so that the soil mixture has time to settle.
- A stake is driven in the center of the hole - a support for the seedling. It should rise at least 0.5 m above the soil level. The peg should be located on the north sides of the seedling.
- The extracted soil is mixed with peat / humus (2: 1). Pour the prepared mixture into the pit - it must be filled by about 2/3.
- Having spread the roots, the seedling is placed in a hole - on a mound of soil mixture, and they begin to carefully cover the roots with ordinary soil, without fertilizers. As they backfill, the soil is rammed - so that there are no inter-root voids. The root neck should not be buried in the ground - 3-5 cm should remain from it to the ground surface.
- A sapling is tied to a support with a soft material.
- Water the tree abundantly. When water is absorbed, the soil is slightly loosened, and then mulched.
An experienced gardener will tell you how to plant a plum correctly in the video below:
It is not recommended to add mineral fertilizers to the planting pit in the fall - they will stimulate the growth of shoots, and most importantly - the roots of the seedling run the risk of getting burned.
Spring planting
Spring planting is practiced in regions with harsh winters. Seedlings planted in spring are more likely to take root and safely survive their first winter. But this is the only advantage of spring planting.
Disadvantages of planting seedlings in spring:
- It is difficult to find planting material of the required variety. Nurseries sell seedlings in the fall. Therefore, gardeners often buy seedlings in the fall when preparing for spring planting. And they "preserve" them, digging them in the ground - in a cellar, basement, greenhouse.
- Plum is stimulated early from winter "hibernation" - you can be late with planting, skipping the beginning of sap flow.
- Often the seedlings bloom before planting - such trees will hurt and run the risk of dying.
Planting begins after the snow melts, you need to have time to plant trees before the sap flow begins. But not earlier than 5 days after the soil is completely thawed.
From the autumn planting, the spring differs only in the set of fertilizers applied to the planting pit. Since the tree is to grow and develop, nitrogen must be included in the fertilizer complex, which is contraindicated when planting in the fall.
A soil mixture is introduced into the pit from the fertile layer (15-20 cm) and humus - in a 1: 1 ratio. Add to them:
- superphosphate - 200-300 g;
- potassium salt - 40-60 g;
- wood ash - 300-400 g.
All other actions are similar to the autumn planting. In autumn, after planting a seedling, no work is expected until spring, and after spring planting, care begins immediately - watering, loosening, spraying, etc.
Plum care and cultivation
Plum, although unpretentious, like any garden tree needs care. Each season has its own specifics. Most of all worries are in the spring and summer period.
Subtleties of care at different times of the year
The taste and size of the fruit, the yield of the tree, its health and longevity depend on the correctness and timeliness of care. Seasonal plum care:
- Spring:
- Remove the winter shelter from the trunk.
- Conduct sanitary pruning. Remove damaged and deformed branches. Form a crown. Older trees, if necessary, undergo anti-aging pruning.
- The trunk is whitewashed. For the prevention of sunburn and protection from pests.
- Sprayed for prophylaxis - Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride.
- If necessary, they are fed with mineral fertilizers. Fertilization rate for young trees is 100-200 g of urea / calcium nitrate, for fruit-bearing trees - 300-400 g.
- Summer:
- Water as needed.
- Inspect the tree for diseases and pests. If necessary, spray it.
- They are fed with nitrogen fertilizers (3 times per season). The rest of the feeding - individually, as needed.
- Harvest. Usually it is carried out in stages - as the fruits ripen.
- Fall:
- They are fed with organic fertilizers.
- Insulate the trunks for the winter.
- Repeat sanitary pruning.
- Winter. In winter, there is little work - you need to control the condition of the insulation and shake off the snow from the branches in time.
Watering terms
The rate of irrigation for plums depends on age. A young tree needs 30-40 liters, an adult 70-80 liters. Sample irrigation schedule for an adult fruit tree:
- A couple of weeks before flowering.
- During the growth of ovaries and shoots.
- 1-2 weeks before harvest.
- After harvesting.
- Autumn water recharge irrigation.
When watering, the soil should be moistened 1 m deep. You can not water the plum beyond measure - it is harmful to the crop. The frequency of watering depends on the condition of the soil - it should not be in a dry state.
The timing and frequency of watering depends not only on the climatic conditions of the region and current weather conditions, but also on the age of the tree. Features of watering depending on age:
- First year of life. They irrigate the soil with a watering can as the soil dries. Usually a young seedling is moistened once every 7-10 days.
- Second year. The frequency of watering is reduced. Water the tree as the soil dries and during periods of long absence of rain.
- Up to 15 years... Watered according to the schedule indicated above.
- Over 15 years old. Simultaneously with watering, the tree is fed. But they do not just scatter fertilizers, but pour it into the recesses made around the perimeter.
The main criterion for plum irrigation is the condition of the soil. It should be moist, but not wet. There should be no stagnation of water.
When and how to feed plums?
Features of plum feeding:
- The first year of life, the tree is not fed.
- In the second year, foliar feeding with urea is carried out - in the first and third ten days of June.
- From the third year until the beginning of fruiting, fertilizers are applied to the grooves (depth 5-10 cm), dug in a circle. On one tree - 15-20 liters of solution. Application terms and rates:
- May. Urea and liquid sodium humate - 2 tbsp each. l on 10 l of water.
- June. Nitrofoska - 3 tbsp. on 10 l of water.
- August-early September. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 2-3 tbsp. on 10 l of water.
- Fruiting tree. Fertilizer doses are increased by making 1 sq. m:
- organic fertilizer (humus, compost) - 10 kg;
- urea - 25 g;
- superphosphate - 60 g;
- potassium chloride - 20 g.
What else you need to know about feeding plums:
- Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring. Phosphorus-potash - in the fall, during digging.
- Acidic soils are limed every 5 years.
- If you overfeed the tree with nitrogen, the quality of the fruit deteriorates.
- If the leaves are brown and curled, the tree lacks potassium.
- If the veins of the leaves are brown, you need magnesium.
- Pale green leaves indicate nitrogen starvation.
Tree pruning
Pruning is necessary to increase frost resistance, the formation of the crown and prevent its thickening, giving the tree a beautiful appearance. Plums can grow a lot of extra branches, thickening the crown and reducing yield. Regular pruning helps to correct the situation.
Requirements
Rules for pruning plum trees:
- Pruning is done in spring, fall and summer. Some gardeners also carry out winter pruning, but it is specific and unsafe for the tree. The best time to prune is spring.
- Young seedlings are pruned minimally, pruning is mainly aimed at forming the crown.
- Slightly branching varieties shorten less than highly branching plums.
- When the tree begins to bear fruit, pruning is carried out only as a last resort.
- Most often, a bowl-shaped crown is formed at the plum.
To trim you need a tool:
- garden knife;
- garden saw;
- secateurs.
All cutting parts must be well sharpened so that the cuts are straight. All instruments are cleaned and disinfected.
Spring pruning
Spring is the best time for pruning. They spend it in late March or early April, before sap flow. During the first three years of life, a crown is formed near the tree; if time is missed, the branches will grow beyond measure, get mixed up and will interfere with each other.
In spring, all shoots that grow incorrectly, and old branches that do not give fruit, are clearly visible. Spring pruning rules:
- In the first year of life, all the side shoots are cut off from the tree, and the main conductor is cut so that the height of the seedling is 60 cm.
- In the second year, the main conductor is cut 40-50 cm, together with the upper kidney located above the cut. At the bottom, the lateral branches are cut almost completely, leaving stumps 7 cm long. All other lateral shoots are cut off to 1/3 of the length. The angle of inclination of the skeletal branches should be 50-60 degrees.
- In the third year, 6-8 skeletal branches are selected, all others are removed. No more than 4 buds are left on the remaining branches.
Subsequently, spring pruning is reduced to maintaining a given crown shape:
- Remove all branches that grow incorrectly - inside the crown or located at an obtuse angle.
- If the crown is lush, it is thinned out, old branches are removed.
- They shorten last year's growth - this helps the tree to form new fruit branches.
- Branches broken and frozen during the winter are removed, as well as those on which the birds have damaged their buds.
Pruning is carried out in clear, windless weather, at a temperature of at least +10 ° C.
Summer pruning is applicable only to young trees, it is harmful for adults, and is carried out only if absolutely necessary - for example, when sick branches are found.
Autumn pruning
Autumn pruning is carried out after leaf fall - from about mid-September.It is necessary that there is enough time between the procedure and frost - the tree should get stronger after stress. Autumn pruning is carried out mainly in regions with a warm climate. In regions with harsh winters, pruning is preferred in the spring.
Autumn pruning scheme:
- All diseased, dry and broken branches are removed.
- The main conductor is cut off - if it is too stretched during the growing season.
- Fast-growing, competing, thickening shoots are cut off. All cut branches are burned.
Depending on the age of the tree, the pruning order changes:
- In the first year of life, in the fall, the main conductor is cut off by 1/3, other branches by 2/3.
- Regardless of age, they thin out the crown, remove incorrectly and rapidly growing branches.
- After 4-5 years of life, anti-aging pruning is performed. The frequency of such procedures is once every 4-5 years.
Plum propagation
If you learn how to propagate plums, you can save on planting material. Breeding methods:
- Cuttings. This is the easiest way. Cuttings are harvested in early July. Growing order:
- In the morning or in the evening, cut off the shoot 20-30 cm long. After cutting the cuttings from the shoot with two or three leaves, immerse them in the stimulator for 14-15 hours. When the cuttings are cut, one cut is made even, the other at an angle of 45 degrees.
- The bed is located in a shady place. After mixing peat and sand (1: 1), pour the mixture onto the prepared bed with a layer of 10-15 cm. Pour sand on top - 2-3 cm, and pour it with a superphosphate solution (for 10 liters of water - 1 tsp).
- The cuttings are planted in moist soil, deepened by 3 cm. The interval between the cuttings is 6-7 cm. Cover the garden bed with a film, having previously built a wire frame. The optimum temperature in the greenhouse is + 25-28 ° C.
- Cuttings are watered several times a day, after 3-4 weeks roots appear. In winter, the planting is mulched and insulated, and in the spring they are planted in a permanent place.
- Root shoot. This method of reproduction is only suitable for self-rooted plums; this option is not suitable for grafted trees. Reproduction order:
- The tree should have a branched crown, a low trunk and a well-developed root system. In September or April, they dig out a 2-year-old shoot with roots. The shoots are taken in a sunny place, away from the trunk.
- The growth is chopped off from the maternal root. The process is shortened by a third of the length.
- Shoots are planted in loose soil - like a seedling. When the shoot is separated, the slice is lubricated with garden var.
- Layering. This method is used in early spring. Reproduction order:
- At a small tree, the shoot is bent to the ground. And here they make a ditch, its width and depth - 10-15 cm.
- Having dusted the shoot with a stimulant, lay it in a groove at the top, leaving an apex of 20 cm in length. Fall asleep with earth, ram and water. The stem is pressed to the ground with a bracket so that it does not straighten.
- In the fall, the plant, separated from the mother, is transplanted to a permanent place.
- With bones. This method is used only for growing rootstocks - plants on which cuttings are grafted.
- Vaccinated. For this method of reproduction, two components are needed - a scion and a stock. The latter is easy to grow from seed, you can also use the root branch of plum. The main vaccination options:
- copulation;
- kidney vaccination;
- budding in the butt.
Winter preparation and frost resistance
Preparation of seedlings for winter is carried out in the autumn. The process includes such activities:
- autumn pruning - sanitary and shaping;
- top dressing - with the exception of annual seedlings;
- water charging irrigation;
- whitewashing of trunks;
- insulation and protection from rodents.
Warming and wintering depends on the age of the tree and on the severity of winters in the region. So, young trees are recommended to be insulated, and annual saplings should be buried in the snow for the winter.
The procedure for insulating wood:
- dig the soil in the near-stem circle;
- young trees are tied to a strong support, and their branches are tied in a bunch - to withstand the winds;
- the trunks of young trees are covered with hay, wrapped in paper and tied with a rope;
- to protect the trunk of an adult tree from rodents, it is wrapped in burlap, ruberoid, fiberglass, metal mesh, surrounded by spruce branches.
- In large trees with branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle, supports are placed to prevent the branches from breaking off under the weight of the snow.
Preparation for wintering depends on the region:
- In Siberia and the Urals, trees of any age are insulated.
- In the middle lane, young trees are insulated, and pre-winter care is reduced to pruning, whitewashing, digging and other agrotechnical measures.
Diseases, pests, treatment and prevention
Plum has a lot of diseases and potential pests. Among them there are diseases affecting all stone fruits, and there are those that are characteristic specifically for plums. There are curable and incurable diseases, and there are those that are easily preventable.
Consider the main pests and diseases of plums in the table below:
Diseases / pests | Symptoms / what affects | What to do? |
Kleasterosporiosis | Fungal disease that affects leaves, branches, buds, flowers. On the leaves there are spots turning into holes. | Thinning crown, cleaning fallen leaves. 2-3 weeks before flowering - treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid / copper oxychloride (for 10 liters of water - 30-40 g). |
Moniliosis | Fungal disease. It affects all parts of the tree. The fruits turn brown, covered with gray spots. | Collection and destruction of affected fruits and branches. Before and after flowering - spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid. You can also treat the tree with fungicides after flowering. |
Gomoz | Gum therapy. Resin is released on the bark. Affected branches dry and die. | Prevention of mechanical damage. Wounds are treated with 1% copper sulfate and petralatum. Strongly affected branches are cut down. |
Rust | A fungal disease that affects the leaves - rust spots appear on them. Trees weaken, lose their winter hardiness. | Cleaning of fallen leaves. Treatment before flowering with copper chloride (40 g per 5 liters of water). On a tree - 3 tablespoons of solution. Treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid. |
Fruit rot | Brown spots appear on the fruits, then gray pads with fungal spores. | Destruction of affected fruits. Wood treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid. |
Coccomycosis | The most dangerous fungal disease. It affects leaves, fruits, shoots. The leaves have red-brown and purple spots. On the back of the leaves there is a pink bloom with spores. | Destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment with copper choloroxide (30 g per 10 l of water) or 1% Bordeaux liquid. |
Plum moth | Caterpillars eat out the flesh of plums. The fruits ooze with gum, darken and fall off. | Affected fruits are destroyed. Treatment with 10% Carbophos and Benzophosphate. |
Cherry moth (affects all stone fruits) | Caterpillars eat up buds and gnaw green shoots. | Before sap flow - Nitrafen, during swelling of the kidneys - 10% Karbofos. |
Plum aphid | Sucks the juice from the leaves. They curl and dry. | In early spring, sprayed with Nitrafen. During budding and after flowering - Karbofos and Benzophosphate. |
Apple scale insect (affects all stone fruits) | It creeps along the bark of a tree and sucks out the juice from young shoots. | Treatment before sap flow with Nitrafen (for 10 liters of water - 200-300 g). After flowering - Karbofos. |
Also, plum can be attacked by apple glass, black plum sawfly, plum gall mite, down silkworm, fruit moth and other pests.
Reviews of gardeners about planting and caring for plums
Sergey K., Belgorod region I'm not a big gardener, but a dedicated fan of plums. Many varieties grow on my site, I don't even remember all the names. There are Anna Shpet, Renklode and Hungarian for sure. Some varieties are early, others ripen by September. Some are suitable for compotes, others for jam, and from the Hungarian you get a cool prune. And fresh, tasty, without exception. Their care is minimal, even if I forget or don’t do something, I don’t notice much trouble.
Konstantin P., Krasnodar Territory. First I planted plums for myself. When I realized how fruitful and easy to care for this tree was, I planted a whole garden. Now I am growing Hungarian - it is tasty, beautiful, very well transported, does not deteriorate for a long time. I think that plum is one of the most profitable fruit trees.
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The beauty of the plum is in its variety, unpretentiousness and generous harvests. By planting several different varieties on the site, you will provide yourself with plums for the whole summer. With a little effort, several buckets of plums will grow in your garden every year - early and late, blue and yellow, sweet and sour, for compotes and for prunes.
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