When cultivating turnips in a favorable climate and observing a number of agricultural conditions from 1 sq. m of the garden, it will be possible to get up to 3-4 kg of root crops. In a cool room, they can be stored without loss of marketability and taste until the next season. How to do everything right, read on.
Sowing dates
Turnips can be sown in the ground three times a year. The timing of sowing work depends on the specific climatic conditions and the purpose of growing the crop. Here are the possible seeding options:
- In the spring... If you plan to grow turnips for food, it is best to sow the seeds between April 25 and May 10. The main thing is that the snow melts and the earth warms up a little. Young sprouts are not afraid of small frosts, so juicy roots can be harvested already in summer. The advantage of sowing seeds in spring is that the plant can be protected from the main enemy of the turnip - the cruciferous flea. It appears even when the sprouts are gaining strength and get predominantly in front of a pest that is unable to harm a mature plant. The flea disappears in summer and the gardener can harvest without hindrance.
- Summer... If you plan to grow turnips not only for food, but also for winter storage, you can start sowing seeds from late June to mid-July. Turnip loves temperatures in the range of + 12 ... 20ºC, therefore it bears fruit well in moderately warm summers. Under favorable weather conditions, seedlings will appear on the 3-4th day of sowing seeds.
- Before winter... Turnip belongs to cold-resistant crops - it can germinate at a temperature of + 2 ... 5ºC, withstanding short-term periods of frost. In this regard, to obtain an early harvest (2-3 weeks earlier than usual), you can resort to winter sowing by immersing the seeds in the ground in the fall - in October or early November (in warm weather). Turnip seeds endure the winter under a snow blanket, undergo natural stratification in the ground and sprout together in early spring.
Site selection and preparation
A turnip can be successfully grown on a plot, when choosing which one should take into account the following parameters:
- Illumination... Young plants respond well to mild weather, sunlight and a minimum of shading, so you should choose well-lit and warm places for turnips, reliably protected from winds and drafts. They can be located on level or slightly lowered areas so that the soil maintains an acceptable level of moisture for this moisture-loving crop.
- The soil... Succulent and large root vegetables can be grown on level, light soils. Turnip responds best to peat bogs, loam and sandy loam soils, but it grows poorly in clay areas. The reaction of the soil must be low or neutral, otherwise the grown roots will not be well stored. If necessary, the acidity of the soil can be reduced by liming.
- Predecessors... Like all plants of the Cruciferous family, turnip grows poorly in areas where its relatives grew before (they have common diseases and pests). These include:
- watercress;
- daikon;
- horseradish;
- any kind of cabbage;
- radish;
- radish;
- mustard;
- swede.
As for the best predecessors, these are:
- legumes;
- cucumbers;
- tomatoes;
- carrot;
- potatoes;
- pumpkin;
- zucchini;
- onion;
- strawberries.
Turnips can be sown as a re-crop in beds where early-maturing vegetables were previously cultivated.
- Neighborhood... To prevent the turnip from getting dusty, related crops need to be located in another place. It is best to cultivate legumes next to it.
A site that meets all the requirements must be properly processed. Regardless of the period of sowing, this should be done in the fall, adhering to the following order:
- Dig the soil deeply, applying two types of fertilizers:
- organic - 2-3 kg of organic matter (humus or compost, but not fresh manure) per 1 sq. m;
- mineral - 15-20 g of urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. m.
Nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied to the above norms, since their surplus will provoke excessive growth of tops to the detriment of root crops, due to which they will worsen their taste and may acquire voids.
- For alkalization during deep digging, add wood ash to the soil at the rate of 100-150 g per 1 sq. m. Thanks to this, the earth will become more loose. Some gardeners burn a fire on the site to feed the soil with wood ash, and then scatter the charred remains of a tree over it and dig up the soil. To neutralize the acidity of the soil, you can also use eggshells. It will need to be dried and chopped with a blender. The resulting powder must be sprinkled on the ground before digging at the rate of 40 shells per 1 sq. m.
- Level the area with a rake and tamp.
How do you get and process seeds?
Turnip is a vegetable with a two-year growing season. In the first year after its sowing or planting of seedlings, fruits with rosettes of leaf plates are formed on the site, and in the second year, the planted roots release an arrow with flowers. Viable and viable seeds ripen on them. If the variety is not a hybrid, they can be sown next season.
To get turnip seeds, it is better to take fruits grown for winter storage. These can be representatives of such varieties as:
- Gribovskaya;
- Petrovskaya-1;
- Orbit;
- Purple;
- Burnt sugar, etc.
Getting seeds from them is as follows:
- From root crops, select specimens with good varietal characteristics.
- Place the planting material in storage and bury it in the sand.
- In the fall, dig up the bed and add humus to place the mother liquors on fertile soil.
- In the spring, re-dig the site and level it. Plant the mother plants in rows at a distance of 30-40 cm. In this case, the roots do not need to be deepened, but rather firmly pressed with soil.
- Tie the peduncle to the vertical support.
- When the pod turns a light yellow color, start collecting seeds. If you delay this procedure, they can crumble on the ground, receiving mechanical damage.
- Peel and dry the seed material.
Collected or purchased seeds must be subjected to competent pre-sowing treatment, otherwise it will not be possible to get active seedlings. First of all, they should be immersed in a 5% sodium chloride solution (5 g per 100 ml of water at room temperature) and stirred to remove air from their surface. Those specimens that float must be removed, since they are hollow, damaged or deformed and will not give strong shoots.
The specimens that have settled at the bottom must be disinfected, since 80% of turnip diseases are transmitted through seeds. This can be done in the following ways:
- Warming up... Throw the seeds into a cloth bag and put them in a thermos with hot (+ 40 ... + 50 ° С) water for 5 minutes. Then immediately cool them in cold water, lowering them in it for 2-3 minutes.
- Soak... Pickle the seeds in a 2% solution of potassium permanganate, for the preparation of which 2 g of powder are dissolved in 100 ml of water at room temperature. Soaking time is 20 minutes. After disinfection, rinse the seeds and soak them for swelling for several days in water, which must be changed twice a day.
For better germination, seeds should be soaked for a day in a biostimulator (Epin-extra, Zircon, Ecoel).
After calibration and disinfection, the seed should be slightly dried, mixed with sand and sown in the ground.
Sowing seeds in open ground
If the turnip is cultivated in a seedless way, sowing seeds in open ground is carried out according to the following instructions:
- Loosen the soil and immediately roll it in a little.
- Prepare small grooves on the bed with a depth of 1.5-2 cm.The distance between them is 10 cm, and the row spacing is 20-35 cm.
- Sow seeds at the rate of 0.2-0.3 g of conditioned seeds per 1 sq. m or 2 pieces per 1 cm. If the seed is too small, it is advisable to sow it with ballast, after mixing it with sand. This is a painstaking procedure, but the planting will not be too thickened, therefore, when caring for the crop, you will not need to thin out the bushes several times, which can damage the roots.
- Cover the crops with sand, and then - with compost, humus, coconut substrate or loose soil. At the end, it remains to water the area with water or an EM-preparation solution and cover it with a non-woven material for faster germination.
The covering material can be removed after 2 days, and a day after that the first shoots will hatch.
If the seeds are sown before winter, then the following differences from spring and summer sowing should be taken into account:
- seeds can be sealed to a depth of 3-4 cm;
- it is better to sprinkle them not with frozen and petrified earth, but with pre-prepared peat or sand;
- along the edges of the garden it is worth putting landmarks in order to quickly find a place for sowing turnips in the spring.
When snow falls, it must be thrown onto the garden bed. Repeat this procedure 2-3 times a season.
Seedling method of cultivation
Seeds processed in the above way should be sown in wooden boxes or separate cups filled with substrate, about 30-40 days before planting the seedlings in a permanent place. Another option for sowing is in peat tablets, previously soaked so that the soil in them has time to swell. It is enough to place 2 seeds in each tablet.
It is better to grow seedlings in separate containers, since it does not tolerate picking well. Peat tablets are considered the best option - they can be planted in the ground together with seedlings, without destroying the earthy ball and without injuring the delicate root system of the plant.
Regardless of the capacity in which the sowing was carried out, proper care must be organized for the seedlings, which consists in carrying out the following agrotechnical measures:
- Organization of an optimal microclimate... After sowing, cover the containers with foil and place them on the south-side windowsill so that they are well illuminated by sunlight. When the sprouts hatch, the film must be removed. The optimum air temperature for their active growth and development is in the range of + 6… + 12 ° C. Similar conditions can be organized on a balcony or terrace, but the rays must not be allowed to directly hit the delicate seedlings of the plant.
- Thinning... When the seedlings cotyledons open, thin out the seedlings - choose the most developed sprouts, and carefully cut the rest with sharp scissors at the very base (at ground level).
- Watering and loosening... Moisten the soil as necessary, preventing it from drying out or waterlogging. Wet soil must be carefully loosened to provide the cuttings with the right amount of oxygen.
- Top dressing... On the 4-5th day of the opening of the cotyledons, feed the seedlings with nitrofoskoy (1 tbsp. L. Per bucket of water). Solution consumption - 10-15 ml for each seedling.
- Hardening... About 2 weeks before planting the seedlings in a permanent place, start hardening procedures. At first, containers with seedlings can be taken out into the street or an open balcony for an hour, but every day the hardening time must be increased so that by the 15th day, the seedlings spend in the open air a whole day.
In mid-May, mature seedlings with 2-3 true leaves can be planted in a prepared place. The optimal distance between plants is 25-35 cm. After transplanting, the soil around them must be carefully tamped and watered abundantly.
Planting care
To collect juicy and large root crops from the garden, the plant must be properly looked after - from watering to protection from all sorts of adversity.
Watering
Turnip loves moisture, in the absence of which the roots acquire a bitter taste, become too thickened or cracked, and lose their commercial qualities. In order to prevent such consequences, it is necessary to organize a competent irrigation regime in compliance with the following rules:
- prevent the soil from drying out by watering the plants 1-2 times a week at the rate of 5-5-6 liters of water per 1 sq. m;
- during the period of emergence, in the phase of formation of true leaves and at the stage of maximum growth of root crops, provide the plants with the most abundant watering, increasing the water consumption to 8-10 liters per 1 sq. m;
- moisten the soil in the morning or evening, watering young shoots from a watering can with a fine sieve for uniform irrigation of the entire area, and larger bushes from a hose with a regular diffuser;
- water the bushes only with warm water that has been set in the sun;
- reduce watering to a minimum after the roots gain the mass characteristic of a particular variety, otherwise they will crack (as a rule, this period occurs a week before the turnip harvest).
Loosening, weeding and mulching
The plant is sensitive to a lack of oxygen, so the garden should be loosened regularly on wet soil. Before that, you need to evenly sprinkle wood ash over it with a layer of 0.5 cm to scare off cruciferous flea bees. Instead of ash, you can use ground pepper, mustard powder or tobacco dust.
Together with loosening, the site should be cleared of weeds, and then mulch with straw or hay. Thanks to a layer of mulch, the evaporation of moisture from the soil will slow down, which will save the gardener from the need for frequent loosening of the site and removing the soil crust.
Thinning
With too frequent shoots, this procedure should not be delayed, otherwise the root crops will not be able to gain the required mass and will turn out to be too small. Here is the optimal decimation scheme:
- At the stage of appearance of 2-3 true leaves... Leave at least 4-5 cm between the bushes, removing weak and diseased specimens.
- 2 weeks after the first thinning... Extend the distance between plants to 10-15 cm.
Top dressing
If the soil has been well fertilized in the fall or spring, the culture can be left without feeding. However, in the case of poor soil, it is still worthwhile to carry out 1-2 dressings per season, adhering to the following sequence:
- One month after germination... For feeding, use complex mineral fertilizers. Among them, nitroammofoska is effective (dilute in the amount of a matchbox in a bucket of water, and treat 1 square meter of the garden with the resulting solution). It can be replaced with superphosphates, potassium chloride or potassium magnesium.
- Around the middle of summer... During this period, turnip responds best to potash fertilizers. If the roots develop well, it is enough to scatter 250-300 g of wood ash for each square meter of the plot (contains up to 5% potassium). If the roots are lagging behind in development, it is better to water the garden with a solution of potassium sulfate (10 g per bucket of water for processing 1 sq. M).
Experienced gardeners use organic matter to feed turnips - at the stage of formation of the first true leaves, they are watered with grass dressing.
Protection against diseases and pests
Turnips can be infected with diseases that pose a danger to plants of the Cruciferous family. She is more susceptible to such pathologies:
- Fomoza... The fungus infects the leaves, which are first covered with dark spots, and then with "fluff". With such signs, the tops should be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid.
- Kiele... Attacks the root system of the plant. Growths appear on the petioles and root crops, which provoke a gradual wilting of the plant. In the fight against keel, the bed should be watered with infusion of horseradish leaves or roots (leave the crushed raw materials in water for 4 hours).
If signs of damage appear too much, diseased plants must be removed from the garden and burned, and the remaining plants must be treated with fungicides (Topsin-M, Fundazol).
As for pests, the danger to turnips can be:
- Fleas (cruciferous, earthen)... They destroy young shoots and can deprive the gardener without a crop. To prevent their attacks, you can water the beds with Malathion solution (60 g per 10 liters of water) or sprinkle with a mixture of equal amounts of ash and tobacco dust. Another option is to spray the inlets with vinegar water (1 cup 70% vinegar per 10 liters of water).
- Cabbage butterfly... Caterpillars pose a danger to turnips. To get rid of them, the seedlings need to be watered with water and vinegar (3 tbsp. Per 10 liters of water).
- Cruciferous bug... Attacks leaves, sucking life juices from them. In the fight against bedbugs, the bed should be sprayed with a decoction of yarrow (pour 80 g of dried flowers with 10 liters of water, boil and strain, add 40 g of soap shavings).
- Cabbage moth... The caterpillars that eat the leaves can hit the plant. To scare them off, turnips need to be pollinated with tobacco dust.
If insect pests have already infected the plant, it is better to use chemical preparations against them, following the instructions on the package. The following means show good results:
- Malathion;
- Trichlorometaphos-3;
- Iskra-M;
- Rovikurt;
- Bankcol;
- Fury.
In the early stages of infection, it is better to use biological preparations that can be used to treat plants even 5 days before harvesting root crops. Among them, effective are:
- Entobacterin;
- Bicol;
- Aktofit;
- Nemabakt.
Why is the turnip not growing?
Fewer gardeners grow turnips, noting that it grows poorly or does not bear fruit at all. There are two common reasons or mistakes in cultivating this crop that can deprive a gardener without a crop. Let's consider them separately.
Unsuitable soil
Turnip is unable to grow on peaty or soddy-podzolic soils, since it immediately becomes sick with keel on them. Even if the defeat of the disease occurs after the formation of root crops, their taste immediately deteriorates - it becomes woody and tasteless.
Before growing tasty and beautiful root crops under such conditions, it will be necessary to significantly domesticate the land. To make it fertile and neutral, you will need to add up to 1/2 bucket of wood ash for each square meter of the garden.
Cruciferous flea
Pests with whole colonies attack young turnip seedlings, so one day the seedbed can be found completely empty. In order not to face such consequences, you can use three ways:
- Sow seeds early in the spring. The fact is that the period of activity of flea beetles falls in late spring, and if turnip seeds are sown at this time, the sprouts that appear after a few days will certainly become victims of this pest. More hardened plants of an early sowing period are better able to withstand flea attacks.
- Sprinkle ash, tobacco or just road dust right on the seedlings. The difficulty is that these procedures need to be performed every day, so this is troublesome and not the most effective action.
- Cover the turnip after sowing with a covering material that can be removed when weeding and thinning the plants. It is best to carry out these works during the day, when the fleas are resting.
In order for the turnip to actively grow and bear fruit, it is enough to grow it on fertile neutral soil, apply a large amount of ash and protect the planting from the cruciferous flea with a covering material.
Harvesting and storage
You need to collect root crops on time, otherwise they will become coarse, worsen their taste and will not be suitable for long-term storage. The following rules will help you not to miscalculate over time:
- during the summer, turnips with a diameter of 7-10 cm are considered the most suitable for harvesting, but earlier harvesting is also possible when the turnip reaches a diameter of 4-5 cm;
- for winter storage, collect root crops over the end of September - early October, that is, before the arrival of frost (low temperatures will make the fruits soft and tasteless).
You need to harvest on a sunny day without rain and frost, following these instructions:
- Pull the roots out of the soil without much effort, just by hand. If there are any difficulties, they can be slightly undermined without damaging the skin, as this will provoke decay processes and negatively affect their further storage.
- Carefully cut off the tops from the collected root crops, leaving only petioles 3-4 cm long. Woody roots must also be removed, otherwise they can absorb some of the useful elements.
- Using a dry cloth, clean the roots from the soil and dry them for 5-7 days in an open place, sprinkling with hay or straw 12-15 cm.
Dried root vegetables without any signs of damage can be used fresh for preparing vegetable salads, warm dishes and cough juice. Otherwise, they should be sent for storage in a dry and dark room, where the temperature is kept within + 2 ... 4 ° C or slightly lower. In this regard, the best option is a cellar or basement.
Turnip is perfectly stored in cardboard or wooden boxes, the bottom of which is sprinkled with dry sand or peat chips. In this case, the root crops must be decomposed in such a way that they do not strongly touch each other. The layers between them can also be sprinkled with sand. In this form, they can be stored without damage for several months.
If there are not many turnips, it can be wrapped in plastic or plastic wrap, and then stored in the refrigerator or on the balcony. In this form, root crops can lie for up to a month.
In the room, turnips can be stored for no more than 2-3 weeks. Over time, the flesh of the root vegetables will become more bitter, which will be a sign of spoilage.
With tall, highly leafy stems above the ground and thick, fleshy roots, turnips can be easily grown in the garden through seedlings or direct seeding into the ground. The culture is unpretentious, therefore, it is enough to carry out sowing work at the right time, and then organize basic care for the plant.